Freetown's airport is not in Freetown. It sits at Lungi, on the far side of the Sierra Leone River estuary, and every arriving passenger has to cross the water or drive the long way round before reaching the city. That makes the first two hours in Sierra Leone a sequence of small transactions: a 25 dollar arrival fee, a water-taxi ticket of 45 to 60 dollars, a bus to the jetty, a crossing of about 35 minutes, and a lift from the dock at Aberdeen. Each step goes more smoothly if you can message the person meeting you, check that your boat is running on a late flight, or call a hotel when a plan changes. We could not confirm any branded operator counter inside the 2023 terminal, so a working eSIM is the most reliable way to have data for the whole of that journey.
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Freetown International, at Lungi
The airport's official name is now Freetown International Airport, though almost everyone, including the tourism board and the water-taxi companies, still calls it Lungi. Its codes are FNA and GFLL. It is the only international airport in the country, built on a former Royal Air Force base that replaced Freetown's original airstrip at Waterloo in 1949, which is why it ended up on the opposite shore from the capital.
A new passenger terminal opened on 4 March 2023, part of a 270 million dollar expansion approved by Parliament in December 2020. It stands on the northern side of the 3,200 metre runway, towards its eastern end, was designed for about one million passengers a year, and is run under a management agreement with Summa Airport (SL) Ltd. Scheduled traffic is mostly regional and European: ASKY, Air Peace, Air Senegal, Kenya Airways, Royal Air Maroc, Brussels Airlines and Air Sierra Leone, the last flying to London Gatwick. Accra is the busiest single route.
The bridge that is not there yet
A road bridge across the estuary to link Lungi with Freetown was announced by President Julius Maada Bio in 2019, after the government cancelled the planned new airport at Mamamah. As of October 2026 it has not been built, so the water, the ferry and the long road through Port Loko remain the only ways across.
From the Aircraft to the Jetty
The sequence after landing is more involved than at most capital airports, and almost all of it is paid in cash dollars.
Arriving at FNA, step by step
1. Clear immigration. A 25 dollar arrival fee applies to most passengers; the WAIGF secretariat's May 2026 notice to delegates describes it as the standard airport immigration fee, payable on arrival. One airport guide says it can be prepaid online through Securipass or paid with Orange Money or Afrimoney, which we could not confirm with the operator, so carry the cash.
2. Collect your bags and pass customs.
3. Find the water-taxi desks or representatives in the arrivals area. Sea Coach Express sells tickets at the airport and, according to travellers, accepts dollars.
4. Board the shuttle bus to the boat terminal on the Lungi side, a ride of about 20 minutes.
5. Wait while luggage is loaded, often another 20 minutes, then cross to Aberdeen in about 35 minutes.
The door-to-door time from aircraft to a Freetown hotel is usually 80 to 120 minutes. The boats run to the flight schedule rather than a fixed timetable, so a delayed arrival normally still gets a crossing, but it pays to confirm by phone. Sea Coach's published number is +232 76 551155. That call is far easier on a working eSIM than on a borrowed handset.
Cash, before anything else
The WAIGF secretariat advised delegates in May 2026 to carry enough US dollars for the airport fee and the water taxi, because card payment and currency exchange may not be available during transit. Bring small notes. Leones are useful once you reach Freetown, but the airport-side transactions are priced in dollars.
Water Taxi, Ferry or the Road Round
There are four ways from Lungi to Freetown, and they differ more in reliability than in distance.
| Option | Where it lands | Time | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|
| Sea Coach Express water taxi | Aberdeen, western Freetown | About 35 min crossing, 80 to 120 min door to door | $45 to $60 one way |
| Sea Bird Express water taxi | Aberdeen | Similar to Sea Coach | Similar, confirm when booking |
| Government ferry, Tagrin to Kissy | Kissy, eastern Freetown | About an hour afloat, plus long waits | The cheapest option; current fare not verified |
| Road via Port Loko | Freetown by the highway | 3 to 5 hours | Shuttles and private cars vary widely |
| Private speedboat charter | Arranged with the operator | 20 to 30 min | Quote-based |
The two private water-taxi companies are the default for visitors. Sea Coach Express has run the route since July 2009 from its dock on Aberdeen Road; Sea Bird Express is the established alternative. Fares are quoted inconsistently: the national tourism site says 45 dollars including the bus to the dock, while ECOWAS's internet governance forum told its May 2026 delegates to budget 60 dollars. Budget for the higher figure and be pleasantly surprised.
The government ferry from Tagrin, near the airport, to the Kissy terminal in the east of Freetown is how most Sierra Leoneans cross, and it carries vehicles. It is far cheaper, but local press has reported sailings leaving hours behind schedule, and Kissy is a long, congested drive from the western hotel districts. The road round through Port Loko makes sense only if you are heading upcountry anyway, or if the sea is rough in the rainy season, from roughly June to October. Wikipedia notes that the water taxis themselves often carry air conditioning and WiFi, but we could not confirm a current onboard network name.
What the Terminal Offers for Your Phone
This is where the information runs thin, and we would rather say so than invent a kiosk. We found no current, reliable report of an Orange, Africell or Qcell branded counter in the 2023 terminal. Travellers' accounts from the old building describe SIM sellers working outside the doors, and a travel guide lists currency exchange kiosks and an information desk in arrivals. The airport has advertised WiFi, with one guide placing internet access in the business centre and the lounge, but we could not confirm a public network name or how the login works in the new terminal.
Why the Lungi side is a poor place to buy a SIM
Even if a seller is working outside the terminal, the registration rules make an airport purchase awkward. NatCA is phasing in the barring of lines that are not properly registered against identification, so a card sold from a bag in the car park may stop working within weeks. The branded shops in Freetown, which can register a line against your passport, are on the other side of the water. By the time you reach them after an evening flight, they are closed.
Once your phone is on a network, coverage across the route is reasonable. Orange and Africell both have masts on the Lungi side and along the Freetown shore, and the estuary at this point is narrow enough that phones generally keep a signal for much of the crossing. That is the window in which a message to your hotel, a driver or a colleague is most useful.
The Arrival Day in Dollars
Set the phone question against the rest of the arrival bill and it looks small.
| Item | What you get | Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Arrival fee | Paid on arrival at FNA | $25 |
| Water taxi | Bus to the Lungi dock and crossing to Aberdeen | $45 to $60 |
| Nomad eSIM | 1 GB, 7 days, Orange or Africell | $7 |
| Airalo eSIM | 1 GB, 3 days, listed on Zain | $8.50 |
| Nomad eSIM | 5 GB, 30 days | $27 |
| Holafly eSIM | Unlimited, 5 days | $60.90 |
| Orange shop in Freetown | Monthly 10GB, 30 days | NLe 150 (about $6.10) |
| Africell shop in Freetown | 15 GB, 30 days | NLe 300 (about $12.20) |
Over a long stay, the local bundles win easily, and a Freetown shop is where to buy one. For the arrival itself, a 7 dollar Nomad gigabyte costs less than a third of the arrival fee and covers the whole transfer, the first evening's messages and a map of Aberdeen. Holafly is hard to justify for the arrival alone. The full provider comparison is in the Sierra Leone eSIM guide, local bundles and registration are in the Sierra Leone SIM card guide, and the eSIM Finder will match a plan to your dates.
Why Lungi Rewards Arriving Connected
At most airports the case for an eSIM is convenience. At Lungi it is coordination, because the airport, the jetty and your bed are in three different places.
Landing with data working
Waiting until Freetown
One practical habit: many evening arrivals choose to sleep at Lungi and cross in the morning, an option Visit Sierra Leone's transfer guide suggests for late flights. If you are considering that, a working phone lets you decide at the baggage belt rather than in advance, once you know whether your flight was late. Most long-haul passengers reach Freetown through Brussels, Casablanca, Accra, Nairobi or Lagos; install the eSIM on the ground at your connecting airport, where the WiFi is dependable.
Frequently Asked Questions
How much is the water taxi from Lungi airport to Freetown?
Plan on 45 to 60 dollars one way. The national tourism site quotes 45 dollars including the bus to the dock, while ECOWAS told its May 2026 forum delegates to budget 60. Sea Coach Express and Sea Bird Express both run the route to Aberdeen, and tickets are sold at the airport, in dollars.
Is there a SIM counter inside Freetown International Airport?
We could not confirm one in the terminal that opened in 2023. Earlier traveller reports describe sellers outside the building rather than branded desks. With NatCA phasing in barring of unregistered lines, an Orange, Africell or Qcell shop in Freetown is the safer place to buy, which makes an eSIM the practical way to cover the arrival.
Does my phone get signal on the boat across the estuary?
Generally, yes, for much of the 35 minute crossing. Both shores have Orange and Africell masts and the estuary is narrow where the water taxis cross. Switch your eSIM on as you leave the terminal so you can message whoever is collecting you at Aberdeen before you arrive.
What happens if my flight lands after the last water taxi?
The boats are scheduled around flights, so a moderately late arrival usually still gets a crossing, but call the operator to check. If you miss it, the options are a hotel in Lungi and a morning boat, or a three to five hour drive round through Port Loko. Data on your phone makes either easier to arrange on the spot.
What cash do I need when I land at Lungi?
US dollars, in small notes: 25 for the arrival fee and 45 to 60 for the water taxi. ECOWAS advised its 2026 delegates that card payment and money exchange may not be available during the transfer. Get leones from an ATM in Freetown once you are across.